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| Strategist contributor Mya Gelber is kind of known for her hunts — she’s stopped strangers on the subway to find the perfect tote, exhaustively searched for the perfect white tee, and tried on 20 pairs of pants to find the perfect dark-wash jeans. So, as a treat for our newsletter subscribers, we’re sharing her hunt for the perfect button-down four days before it goes on the site. Read on and enjoy! |
| The white button-down is perhaps the most versatile piece of clothing one can own. Pair a perfectly crisp oversize button-down with some sweats and loafers, and you have yourself the chicest Olsen twin–esque outfit without lifting a finger. |
| And yet: I feel as if I’ve been on a lifelong journey to find the perfect one, and I was starting to think it may not exist. In my experience, most cotton button-downs are too thin and transparent and, at the same time, too figure-hugging or way too oversize and boxy. I’ve ended up opting for white oxfords because they are thicker and less prone to wrinkles. And I tend to buy secondhand button-downs that are usually made from a higher-quality thick cotton. |
| WHAT (SPECIFICALLY) I WAS LOOKING FOR |
| In an ideal world, my perfect button-down is crisp white with a slightly exaggerated pointed collar and big cuffs. I like to roll up my sleeves, and big cuffs give a button-down a more elevated, expensive look. Preferably, there is no front pocket, and if I am really trying to curate my ideal shirt, it is machine washable and doesn’t wrinkle easily. As for fabric, a majority-cotton shirt is excellent in the hot summer months. I want something that is slightly boxy and not too oversize with one back pleat to create a beautiful, billowy silhouette, tucked or untucked. Finally, I want a shirt that’s the perfect length to be untucked and long enough to cover my bum but not so long that it’s annoying to tuck into work pants or jeans. |
| This has probably been one of my harder hunts, and for the most part I was really disappointed with the state of the white button-down market. I tested a wide array of brands (from fast-fashion low end to high end) and found so many shirts that had threads coming undone and messy sewing. In total, I tested around 25 and wrote about 16 of the ones worth mentioning below. I ended up with three favorites and one winner. |
| THE ONES I TRIED ON IN-STORE |
| I always like to try in-store shopping first because it’s obviously a lot easier than having to buy and return a variety of testing subjects. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | I decided to pay a visit to the new Frankie Shop in Soho, known for elevated workwear and basics. I tried on its classic oversize shirt, which unfortunately comes in just one size that’s meant to fit all. The lack of sizing and already big fit made this button-down look almost comical on my frame. The real issue was that this blouse is paper thin, practically transparent. You couldn’t get away with this shirt in a corporate setting without an undershirt. Plus, the fabric kept doing that annoying thing where it starts to stick to your bra. I left this one behind and walked out empty-handed. The final blow was that the tag recommends dry-clean only. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | Next, I walked over to the Alex Mill on Mercer Street and tried on the Jo Shirt in cotton poplin. This is a 100 percent cotton button-down with great proportions. The construction is fantastic, and the added detail of real shell buttons is extra credit in my book. My only qualms were the drop shoulders and thin poplin fabric. This shirt definitely feels more casual and lacks the big cuffs and collar I was looking for. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | Then it was on to the new J.Crew store on Spring Street. If I were to find a good button-down anywhere, it would be here. I tried the Étienne Oversize Shirt. An important note: This shirt runs extremely oversize; I’m wearing an XXS here (I’m usually a S/M in tops). Despite the weird sizing, I liked it. But for how big this shirt is, it needs a slightly more curved hem. The bottom hem was too straight, making the shirt fall weirdly. And the shoulders also sat weirdly. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | Over at Officine Générale, I tried on the Ella Shirt, which is made of cotton poplin. I absolutely loved the exaggerated, super-pointy collar and soft, lightweight cotton. For the price, however, I would have wanted the collar and cuffs to be slightly stiffer. Ultimately, the store didn’t have my size in stock, and I wasn’t ready to pull the trigger on this one for the price. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | Finally, I went to the Great’s new store on Broome Street. I tried on the Society Top button-down, which has a classic boxy shape with some added flair; the back and shoulders have pleats. Of all the shirts I tested out and about, this was my favorite. I really loved the shape and construction. The price, though, was a bit too high. |
| THE ONES I ORDERED ONLINE |
| After doing quite a bit of in-person shopping, I still didn’t feel I’d been able to try enough options, so I placed some orders … |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | First, I tried one of COS’s staple white button-downs. From the online photos, this shirt really ticked all my boxes with its slightly exaggerated collar and cuffs. But though I loved the collar, the cuffs were really long and slightly too unique for the classic everyday button-down I am looking for. Also, the sleeves taper slightly so it felt more like a batwing-style shirt. I loved the fun details, but this wasn’t the one. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | Since I had so much success in finding basics at Old Navy, I decided to order its boyfriend-style button-down in poplin. I really liked the oversize, boxy fit and how it wasn’t too long. It fell right below the hips, and the material is very thin and delicate. This is a great inexpensive option if you’re looking for something to throw over a swimsuit or for a stroll to the farmers’ market. Ultimately, this was too casual and light for what I was looking for. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | Next, I tried the big organic-cotton shirt from the Gap. This shirt has a straight silhouette with a relaxed, oversize fit. I really liked the larger cuffs and collar; however, the shape of the shirt didn’t suit me, and I felt it had more of a triangular shape than a straight one. The quality was better than the Old Navy shirt I’d tried, but the fit of the Old Navy was more what I was looking for. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | Aritzia has a wide range of button-downs, so I decided to try its relaxed poplin shirt. This top is almost identical to the GAP one — it was difficult to tell them apart. The front pockets are twins as are the fabric and construction. The only difference is the price. The Aritzia shirt has an oversize, boxy fit. I mean very oversize: The back of the shirt landed almost at my knees. I did like that the buttons are double fabric backed. But I found the cuffs and collar too small, and I had a difficult time getting out the wrinkles with my steamer. Pass. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | Often when I search for secondhand button-downs on Poshmark or eBay, I look for vintage Banana Republic ones from the ’90s and early aughts. Their quality and construction are superb, and it makes sense that the brand dominated officewear for women for so long. I decided to try its Perfect Shirt, which is 100 percent cotton and has a relaxed, straight fit. This shirt has a perfect big stiff collar and gorgeous wide cuffs. The fabric felt a little thin and kept sticking to the front of my bra. I think of all the shirts I tried, this had the most classic, “perfect†fit. However, I wanted something with a little more room in the arms and a slightly boxier fit. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | Quince has been one of my absolute go-tos for inexpensive workwear. I am a big fan of its linen camp shirt and satin midi skirt. So of course, I had to test the cotton button-down. For $40 dollars, this is a really good option if you love a boxy fit. As for its shape, I loved how this one looked on my frame; the length was actually perfect. However, I wished for a bigger collar and found the front pocket too big for my liking. I also would have liked double reinforcement on the front buttons. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | This shirt is treated with chemicals, so even after you wash it, you don’t have to iron it. I mean, say less. Aside from the very attractive prospect of never having to iron again, this is a really elegant shirt with clean-finished seams and gauntlet buttons. I loved the stiff collar and cuffs as well as the beautiful front placket. Some drawbacks: It felt slightly itchy and was a bit see-through. Plus, it has a slim, figure-hugging style with back dart pleats instead of my preferred center box pleat. This was a really great contender, and if you’re looking for the perfectly fitted white button-down, this is your best option. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | This shirt is only slightly oversize and has a ’90s inspired fit. I found it extremely soft and comfortable (it’s made from 75 percent cotton, 20 percent nylon, and 5 percent stretch). It has great stiff cuffs, but I just wished the collar were slightly more exaggerated and the fit were slightly boxier. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | This L.L.Bean button-down is perfectly constructed. It has a stiff collar and cuffs as well as reinforced buttons. It comes in a thick cotton that is not transparent or sheer with a single back box pleat and a classic straight fit. I really liked the length of this shirt and think it is perfect for the office or a more corporate setting. Obviously, I am very enticed by the wrinkle-free technology as I would like to avoid ironing at all costs. My one point against it: It was slightly itchy, but I will be holding on to this one as a button-down to throw on for the office. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | In a last-ditch effort, I ordered a white button-down from Almina Concept. This brand makes my absolute favorite pair of boxer shorts on the market, which somehow don’t wrinkle. I was so pleasantly surprised with this one. The fabric was by far my favorite of all 25 shirts I tried. It’s somehow incredibly soft but also structured. Seemingly impossible to wrinkle and easy to steam, this shirt feels so reliable to me. I should note that this is definitely not something you can easily tuck into pants or skirts; it’s meant to sit on top or be styled with a French tuck. But I felt incredibly cool and chic in this button-down and decided to keep it. Aside from the oversize fit, it met all my other qualifications, and I loved that, due to its thickness, I can wear it both to the office and on a night out. |
 |  | | Photo: Mya Gelber | | | | After feeling I still hadn’t gotten to the “perfect†shirt, I decided to do a little more online research and came across one on the Lululemon website that seemed promising. A few days later, I found myself walking by a Lululemon store and stopped in to see if it was in stock. It was! Tucked amid the sweatshirts and quick-drying running shorts was a perfectly crisp white button-down. This shirt has a boxy, cropped fit that’s long enough to tuck into my pants but still covers my bum when untucked. I love the big stiff cuffs as well as the structured collar and a back box pleat that makes it billow really beautifully. The shirt has a slight stretch and can be machine washed. I found it really easy to steam after I brought it home. The fabric blend is sweat-wicking and quick-drying, which will be perfect for New York’s more sweltering months. If I’m being nitpicky, I would have liked a shirt without a front pocket, and the store forgot to take off the sensor so I’ll have to go back. Maybe I’ll get another one … |
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